Clay has some good information on his website http://www.pinrepair.com/arcade/searaid.htm
It has been mostly restored already as you can see from the pictures. It does need some minor work, but it is in good working condition. The top back-glass is in pretty good condition, but the windows that observers can watch you playing your game through are a little scratched up – I think probably from someone scraping off a sticker or tape with something that was too sharp. The bottom back-glass is in very rough shape. I’m not sure if someone tried to clean off the back of this glass and removed the paint, or if it just fell off on its own, but either way, it’s difficult to make out most of the original art. I’m not sure if I will get these reproduced or not.
This is another game I remember from the skating rink when I was young. Probably from 1975-1979.
It is completely electro-mechanical except for the sound. It has some simple circuits that produce 1) a sonar “ping” sound, 2) a torpedo “swooshing” sound of the torpedo launching and going through the water, and 3) an explosion sound when the torpedo hits a ship.
My Sea Raider had a lower backglass in seriously bad shape, and the upper backglass was scratched in the viewing port windows by someone probably trying to remove a sticker or something with a knife or scraper, so I figured I would replace them.
I found some posts on KLOV about a guy named Gary that reproduces them. About the same time I found him listing an upper backglass repro on eBay. I contacted Gary about the lower glass and he was able to reproduce both of them for me. Here’s what my lower backglass looked like before…
Yes, someone painted the back with some kind of black spray. I guess this was to stabilize the flaking paint, but look what it did to the look of the front!
It looked horrible on the game.
The lightbar arm has to come off and out to remove the “seascape”. The motor assembly for the control the arm has to come out to remove the arm. I removed the assembly, and then the lightbar arm by lifting it carefully up and out of the back/top of the cabinet.
Slide the target assembly straight out the bottom back by removing two screws that hold it in. Don’t forget to unplug the connector first.
Remove the “sea scape” by removing at least 4 hex head screws at the top on the sides and at least 2 long round head screws at the bottom. Be careful as the this assembly will fall/drop onto the jones plug connector at the bottom of the cabinet if you don’t support it. The cabinet must be tilted forward about 45 degrees or more in order to slide the assembly out the bottom/back of the cabinet. Also be careful because the sea scape material is brittle after more than 45 years. Many of my staples that hold it to it’s wood frame were no longer holding the material to the frame as the material had cracked around them.
Now you have access to the two boards that hold the bottom backglass in. While you’re here you might as well replace the blacklight, cause this is a pain in the butt to get this far! Also, check your bulbs in your lightbar, because it has to come out to change them, so while it’s out, might as well make sure they all are working, and clean them…
Once the screws are out remove the two boards, and then the backglass.
Reassemble in reverse order.
Here’s what it looks like with the new backglasses.
Ahhhh, much better…
This game’s sound is working, but the explosion didn’t sound like I thought it should. It would make 2 quick ‘banging” sounds that were vaguely like an explosion, but just not like what you’d hope for. When you are firing a torpedo and hit another ship, there is a certain satisfaction that comes from a good explosion, so this had to be fixed!
I found an article where someone else was documenting repairing the sound on their Sea Raider. Luckily, the parts were all present on my machine.
In my game, the 500mfd capacitor had been replaced (I could tell because it was newer, plus it wasn’t soldered in (also, it was only 470mfd). I guess the previous owner must have been trying to fix it also. But even though they had replaced the cap, the sound still wasn’t quite right. I started to do some diagnosis. I tried larger and smaller value caps with no change in the sound. Then I tried with no cap – same sound. Obviously something else was wrong. I didn’t have a schematic, but as far as I could tell, there was only one other component in the that circuit – a really old diode. This picture shows the cap and diode.
I figured the diode had to be bad so I removed it and tested it. It measured 2 ohms resistance in both directions… that’s not right. I looked up the specs and found a similar diode in my stock and soldered it in. That was it, now the sound was working correctly. I think I need to go up to a 500mfd cap because the game is supposed to have a 2-3 second explosion, but the delay I’m getting with the 470 is about 1.5 seconds. A little longer would be nice, but I don’t have a cap rated at the right voltage on hand so that will have to wait.
Pictures for Evan
Close of up cap circled above. I twisted it around to see the writing on it.
The cap circled above looks to be a 1000uf 25v electrolytic.
The other item circled looks like a diode with “H640” written on it. Here’s a picture.