I started a new project, a 1969 Chicago Coin EM Arcade Driving Game. I used to play this at the skating rink, it was a lot of fun.
Here’s some pictures as it arrived.
The paint on this thing was really bad. It was flaking and was so yellowed that it looked really dirty. No matter how much I cleaned it, it wouldn’t clean up. So I decided to try my hand at stenciling the cabinet.
I used tracing paper to trace the designs and then cut those designs out of cardboard (from cardboard boxes). I did a red set and a black set. I used rustoleum spray paint (red and black), and white rustoleum as a base. It came out fairly good, although I can see all the places I messed up of course. It certainly looks better than it did.
This thing is really a masterpiece of mechanical engineering. Check out how this works.
The disks spin at different speeds while a light shines through them reflecting images onto an opaque surface which is then reflected to the player by a mirror.
The machine kinda functioned when I got it. The timer wasn’t working properly, and the score units were a bit sticky and gummed up. So I set to work diagnosing the timer issues.
You can see the timer mechanism here on the left. Turns out the nylon wheel that turns and activates the switches as the timer motor runs was cracked at the point where the set screw tightens it to the motor shaft. Either just from age or over-tightening of the set screw. Luckily I had ordered another timer unit when I bought the machine knowing it wasn’t functioning properly. I cleaned and lubed the new unit and swapped the units and viola, it worked great!
The score motor disks are also nylon but they haven’t cracked and are working well.
Repainting the Cabinet
Filling nicks and gouges.
Sanding the cabinet.
Masking for paint.
Testing my car stencil on some white posterboard.
Red stencil sprayed, waiting for it to try to do black. I did individual stencils for each section, it made them easier to handle.
I wanted to get just the right amount of overspray to match the original paint. I found that you didn’t need to work too hard to get the look right. Just put some heavy objects you don’t mind getting paint on, on the stencils to hold them in place and spray carefully and fully within the stencils and it will come out pretty good.
Here’s an example of a posterboard stencil for the checkerboard flag (the black part). The red is a solid field below the black.
Here’s an example of a cardboard template. I used painter’s tape to create a better edge for the cardboard edges.
Repainting Metal Parts
If you are having problems with the alignment of the steering or the positioning of cars and accidents, the following picture illustrates the area to look at.
The green arrow represents where the steering linkage attaches, and the red arrow points to the circuit board with the solder traces that correspond to the location of the cars.
There’s a microswitch assembly just to the right of the axle (which goes through the center of the plastic discs with the cars on them) which rides along two cogs on the axle which must indicate whether you are on the part of the track that has blue, yellow, or no cars. You can watch the switches move in and out against the cogs as the axle rotates. This in conjunction with the location of the contact against the circuit board results in whether you have an accident or not.
(My memory was wrong in my reply post, the circuit board does not rotate, it’s the micro switch and cog that handle the location of the cars).
The red arrow in this picture shows the location of the cogs/switches.
If the Game Won’t Start
Is the credit light lit? If not, there are no credits on the game and it won’t start. See annotations on the picture below.
Check the slide bank coil fuse. See below.
Also, note the annotations in the picture below.
Additional Pictures of Accelerator Switches
I took some additional pictures how the accelerator attaches to the speed switches as well as the “crash” sound assembly. Hopefully these come out well enough to be useful.